The new basilica for serious foodies
|Dexter Enjoys the Serene Dining Room|
years ago, but this new Covington incarnation moves everything to a new level from Mark Bodenstein’s cuisine to Marie Anderson’s management.
The suite of dishes depends on a number of factors: season, availability of ingredients, and even the week. What a diner may have in November is completely different from what will be served in January or April. Allergies and specific preferences are factored in both at time of reservation and when first seated. Two courses were graciously rethought for me because of allergies.
The following breaks down dishes we encountered recently and they tasted as pure and as beautiful as they looked. This is an ascetic and aesthetic culinary experience:
-Amuse bouche – grapes posing as olives in olive oil and sprinkled with sea salt, which was witty and texturally complex.
-Gougères with beet and olive oil powder. The choux pastry was light, though a little dry, but this made sense since it was essentially the bread course.
-Porcini mixed mushrooms with smoked porcini broth was actually the planned dish. We had seen some of the variety on TV and in grocery stores, but hadn’t cooked them before. Again, they were beautifully prepared and presented.
-Pan seared mackerel with candied kumquat, salmon roe, yuzu sauce that added a note of citrus, and balanced with the mildly flavored, but dreamily colored leek milk.
-The other element was silky buttermilk pudding with cornmeal crumble and lavender.
|The House Blend Coffee|
Made Tableside by Anderson
in a Vacuum Pot
Otherwise, this is the new food standard for Cincinnati. While watching Top Chef over the years, we’ve thought what would Wylie Dufresne’s WD~50 or Grant Achatz’s Alinea look like in this area, especially if they were a little more reasonable and pragmatic? NuVo at Greenup realizes the answer.