Forno Osteria & Bar

Forno Osteria & Bar

     Cincinnati needs another mid-range plus priced Italian restaurant like Columbus needs another restaurant chain.  Cristian Pietoso is also the chef owner of Via Vite on Fountain Square, which is one of our favorite places for either casual or nicer meals.  His father owns Nicola’s and that’s still one of the loveliest restaurants in the region.  Forno Osteria & Bar is in ‘Hyde Park East’, which I think is really south Oakley, on Erie Avenue.  It’s a risky location because although many restaurants have made this a glossy district, few of them have survived more than a couple of years.  The exceptions have been Bangkok Bistro and Sake Bomb.  I still miss the unassuming and charming Pasta al Dente, but that’s another story entirely.  Like Forno, it also made its own pastas.  

Interior Dining and Bar

     Kris, Karn, and Helen were visiting and Karn wanted to check out one of the most talked about restaurants right now.  We decided on Forno because we hadn’t been there.  The indoors/outdoors element of the space will be very popular in the summer, but I thought the dark wood felt like an Italian monster sized version of Lincoln Logs.   The tables are close together; I was able to hear everyone’s order and the servers’ recommendations at the three tables around us.  The entrance was awkward because the manager was on the phone as we were leaving and we had to squeeze past.

Artichoke Soup

     The food, on the other hand, was mostly very good.  Karn, Kris, and Neil had the Fresh Artichoke soup with Parmigiano Reggiano and crostini.  It’s puréed, but with a little texture and has a lovely, golden color.  The taste has a real brightness about it, but I wouldn’t have guessed it was artichoke if I hadn’t known.  Helen had the Margherita pizza with the mozzarella, but without the leaf basil.  We finished it off the next day and I liked it, but I didn’t think it was anything special; it’s not better than Dewey’s.

Roasted Atlantic Cod

     Kris chose the Roasted Atlantic Cod with arugula pesto and soffritto.  The cod was a little drier than I expected with a slight fishiness, but the pesto and soffritto were both excellent.  

Tortelloni Gorgonzola

Karn went with the Tortelloni Gorgonzola—a rich and full-bodied dish covered with veal Parmigiano glace, mushroom and thyme.  Neil was attracted to the Gnocchi with Leek Parmigiano fondue and speck (a form of bacon).  This was a charming dish; the potato pasta was light and the sauce had senses of citrus and smoke about it. 

Gnocchi with Leek Parmigiano

Braised Honeycomb Tripe

     I ordered the Braised Honeycomb Tripe because it’s a specialty and I haven’t seen it on other menus.  It had a texture somewhere between octopus and mushrooms and was covered in a red wine tomato sauce.  It was rich enough to be a small entrée on its own.   I would certainly order it again, but probably consider soup or a salad with it instead.  

Whole Wheat Pappardelle Cinghiale

I went on to the Whole Wheat Pappardelle Cinghiale with beer braised wild boar ragout, which was basically like pulled beef with a tomato Bolognese sauce.  Pietoso always generates a full, rounded base to his red sauces with a complexity of notes in the spices and the alcohol.

     People that would want to visit should do so sooner than later because turnover in this part of the city is quicker than one might assume.

fornoosteriabar.com

 

Delhi Palace: Unassuming but essential Indian cuisine in the region

     Delhi Palace on Montgomery Road in Silverton has been open for a couple of years and it’s turned into our go-to destination for its lunch buffet.  I don’t know why we haven’t reviewed it before now, but I suspect it’s because like a comfortable shoe, we take it for granted even as we’re checking out something more glamorous that doesn’t fit well.  

The Lunch Buffet

The menu is extensive, but some of the favorites at Delhi Palace show up at the terrific (and reasonable) lunch buffet.  It’s worth starting there and returning for dinner a la carte on another occasion.

Flavorful Chicken Dishes

     Delhi Palace can nail chicken every time.  Regardless of the dish and the protein’s preparation, it’s always tender, which can be harder to pull off than one might initially imagine.  The Chicken Tandoori is tasty and served in smaller portions than at other restaurants.  That’s a good thing because a whole thigh or breast can sometimes be tough in spots.  Plus, it gives the diner more room on the plate for 

A Lunch Sampling

some of the other dishes.  Chicken in Butter Sauce is beautifully flavored, though mildly spiced.  It’s a rich sauce like others at this restaurant, but it’s worth it.  Their version of Saag Paneer, a staple on local Indian menus, is hands down the best in town.  It’s creamier than others, but also more complexly seasoned.  The Dal (Lentil) Soup has a citrus after-bite, which is intriguing.  The Tomato Soup was also very good when I had it in the past.  The Mango Lassi has a purer mango flavor and color than other versions I’ve drunk in the past.

Remodeled Dining Room

     The dining room has been spruced up recently, which has cut all decorative ties with the previous restaurants in this location.  Unlike some other popular or well-established Indian restaurants in the region, Delhi Palace always looks neat and there isn’t spilled food from maladroit patrons.  The gentlemen that serve and host are invariably competent and friendly in a quiet manner.  One caveat:  whether dining buffet style or a la carte, the portions are far more filling than they initially appear. 

delhipalace.com

 

Le Bar à Boeuf

This needs polish 

Le Bar à Boeuf Lounge Area

     The first restaurant we reviewed on this blog was Jean Robert’s Table.  For the most part, his restaurants have been ones we’ve returned to on numerous occasions.  I’m not so sure we’ll have the same relationship with Le Bar à Boeuf.  It’s located in The Edgecliff in Eden Park, which has been the black hole destination for a number of reputable restaurateurs over the past few years.  It was a curse I hoped would be broken, but…

Dining Room

     I’d made the reservation online and indicated that it was a birthday.  When we arrived, there was no maûtre d’ around so the bartender kindly came over and seated us.  The maître d’ bopped by quickly to say hello and nothing else after conducting what seemed like a twenty minute conversation with the next table (obviously the couple were regulars) that was all about being a mutual admiration society.  After he departed, this couple argued for about thirty minutes before leaving.  She was a sophisticated suburban shrew; he was passive aggressive.  I couldn’t tell if this was a primary form of communication for them or if it was a mating dance.  Unfortunately, it was more intriguing than anything else during the evening.

Medium Rare Bison Burger and French Fries

     The focus is on the burger, which was fun about eight years ago, but has become a little ridiculous when top chefs and restaurateurs want to charge $15+ for a big piece of meat.  However, I really liked the burger at Salazar because it was closest to my Mom’s.  Boeuf offers various types of meat (no bun, which was fine since the portion is very large), but the waiter didn’t point out that bison is best when cooked medium, but no more because it isn’t a juicy meat.  Mine was good at medium rare, but Neil wasn’t as pleased with his medium well.  There are various accompaniments; the Béarnaise sauce was excellent and since it’s difficult to pull off at home, it’s a great choice.  I also liked the onion compote.  

Bison Burger with Béarnaise Sauce and Mashed Potatoes

Creamed Spinach

     The mashed potatoes and the French fries were good, but not as terrific as they were at Jean Ro’s Bistro a decade ago.  On the other hand, we liked the creamed spinach side.  It featured the vegetable in a light, thin cream sauce.  It was also big enough to share.  

     I wish servers weren’t so desperate to clear plates at the drop of a fork by a specific diner instead of waiting until all in the party have finished.  Neil had to stop his plate from being taken because he hadn’t quite finished eating.

     We had to ask for a dessert menu, but there’s a good selection.  I overheard our server say that the host is more concerned about a server’s personality, rather than her or his ability to set a table.  That’s fine, but the host still needed to instruct our  server how to set for dessert.  Neil chose the

Jean Robert's Classic Chocolate Pot de Crème

chocolate pot de crème, which has been a Jean Robert staple for a while and still wins.  I selected the pineapple and rum pudding, which I naively thought would be either a creamy pudding or a variation on a pineapple upside down cake.

Pineapple and Rum Pudding

It’s actually bread pudding.  It’s good, though I don’t love bread pudding, but nowhere near as good as a version we shared at Bravo last year.  

     I make this sound like it was a downer of an experience, but it wasn’t because the food is good and isn’t obscenely priced.  However, I expect more from Jean Robert and Le bar à Boeuf wasn’t so special that we’d think about returning anytime soon.

    And the birthday celebration I had requested?  It was never mentioned.

jrcincy.com/le-bar-a-boeuf
 

Cuban Pete Sandwiches…Robust, Hot and Sweet

Cuban Pete Sandwiches on Court Street

     When one takes over a space once occupied by Tom + Chee, one must have the hope that the business will have the 

same success.  By borrowing the same menu format and applying it to some Cuban family recipes, the potential is certainly there.  The interior has been splashed with lime green and orange to erase all the red and yellow.  A friendly staff added to the appeal.

El Cubano

     Eric and I met on a Friday for lunch (it's open for breakfast also) to check out one of my favorite cuisines.  Our go-to for Cuban food has been Havana Rumba in Louisville, so our standards are high.  However, on a recent visit there I sampled their El Cubano Sandwich and I wasn't wowed.  So, I was ready to put Cuban Pete to the test.  I found his to be what i consider the perfect Cubano.  There were two things that were key…the bread and an unassuming mustard lightly glazing the cheese.  Eric wasn't as happy with his Special 

Apple Butter Cuban

Apple Butter Cuban with turkey and goat cheese substitutes.  It made me wonder about Pete's other variations including one made with goetta.  We'll leave that one for another visit as well as the other sandwiches and salads.  The side of Plaintains was on par with HR, but the Cuban Missiles (Croquetas) were a mouthwatering filling of puréed ham and mozzarella.  I could have made a meal out of them.  They reminded me of the ham croquettes at Bill Knapp's.  Each sandwich is served with a handful of lightly caramelized popcorn adding to the sweetness present in almost everything we sampled.  Our Café Con Leches were no exception.  I asked for mine sweetened, but Eric confirmed that even the regular was sweet enough.  This was my kind of place! 

cubanpetesandwiches.com

 

Taft's Alehouse is a Great Cincinnati Beer Hall

The Former St. Paul's
Evangelical Church

     What does one do with a closed Evangelical (Lutheran) Church in OTR?  What any beer-loving city would do, of course…turn it into a grand beer hall that dazzles on all aspects.  It feels like no expense has been spared with the interior vestments that perfectly meld the period structure (1850) with today.  Huge chandeliers look like they could have been cleaned up originals, but are not.  Dark wood, beveled glass and tapestry wall paper gave it a welcoming flavor that beckon a return visit on a snowy winter night.  

The Grand Interior

The Menus

     We weren't familiar with the craft beers being produced onsite, so our server gave us a run through and suggestions to match our beer tastes.  Of the 15 offered, we chose 4 different ones to pair with our food.  They ranged from coffee to pale ales to chocolate stout.  All were enjoyed.

Taft's Tub of Love

     The food doesn't settle for second place.  Setting the standard was the Tri-Tip Steak that goes through a 5-step process.  It's featured in several of the dishes offered, popping up as sliders in Taft's Tub of Love appetizer that we shared with our dining partners Karen and Tom.  Also on the plate were Sweet Potato Fries, Smoked Wings and Alehouse Onions.  All were good, but the standouts were the sliders and

Cabo Chop Salad

the light onion straws.  Karen chose the Cabo Chop Salad as her entrée.  It didn't have the appearance of a traditional chopped salad, but her reaction while eating it showed that she approved of the jicama, bleu cheese and honey lime dressing that laid out with the vegetables and Romaine lettuce.  Tom went with 

Portobello Sandwich

the Portobello Sandwich with a red ranch sauce.  It was another winner.  Eric had the Salmon Sandwich, which was grilled medium and topped with a tarragon aioli.  Check!  

Hunter Style Stew

I likened my Hunter Style Stew to a Shepherd's Pie.  Our server cautioned Eric about the mushrooms, but I didn't find any in mine that was ladened with fresh carrots and the tri-tip steak. That led me to think that perhaps the "veggies" listed on the menu may change at the chef's whim.  Nonetheless, it was a hearty portion and I enjoyed it just as much the following day for lunch.  

The Balcony Level

     Our night actually started as pizza and craft beer at Madtree, but fortunately we checked and they are closed on Monday nights.  Their loss and our gain.  We all felt right at home.

taftsalehouse.com

 

The Golden Tajine – good food, good service, good prices

Then Golden Tajine in Northside

     Sue had some wonderful mint tea when she was in France recently and she suggested we check out a Moroccan restaurant for lunch.  We thought she meant one in Northside, but she actually meant another one in Clifton.  We settled on The Golden Tajine in Northside and had a very nice dining experience.  It got off to a peculiar start because we didn’t pay attention to the sign to order at the counter and, instead, sat down and were surprised when the short order cook came around with menus and seemed a little puzzled (in retrospect, by our behavior, rather than anything he was doing).

Hummus and Pita

      There are specials, though these are for dinner on the weekends.  The lunch menu concentrates on pita selections.  We started with the Hummus, which was very fresh with a citrus undertow.  I wondered if he had just made it.  

Greek Fries

The Greek fries were delicious – crispy, seasoned well, with a generous helping of feta cheese.  Neil and Sue each had the Lamb Gyro, which he thought was one of the best he’d ever had 

Lamb Gyro

because it was packed with tender, flavorful meat.  There wasn’t that sharp mutton aftertaste that is the sign of cheap ingredients.  I had the Chicken Schawarma and it was also stuffed with tender, perfectly cooked meat and surrounded by a very fresh pita bread.  

Moroccan Mint Tea

    We also ordered a large Moroccan Mint tea, which was more than enough for the three of us.   Made with honey and enormous mint leaves, it needed no time to steep and was piping hot.  I drank four small glasses of it and could have drunk four more.  Although it’s a dark, 

The Golden Tajine Interior

plain space, the staff certainly does not try to rush patrons out.  This is a place I’d certainly return to and if were closer, order take out.

thegoldentajine.com

Aladdin's Eatery Put Us on a Magic Carpet Ride

Aladdin's Hummus

     Dee had been wanting us to join her at Aladdin's Eatery in Hyde Park.  Her granddaughter, Quinn, was a server there and Dee thought we would enjoy meeting her and exploring the food, which she had found to be quite good.  I'm beginning to enjoy Mediterranean cuisine, but I'm still not sure of some terms so therefore I like some guidance from whoever wishes to offer it to me.

The Nicely Appointed Dining Room

     Somewhere through the years, Fady and Sally Chamoun (Aladdin's founders) must have dined at a Cheesecake Factory and found inspiration from their menus and desserts.  That said, you'll find similarities in their menu design (spiral bound, multiple pages, coloration) and the numerous cheesecakes and layer cakes supplied by their own bakery in Lakewood, OH—Jasmine's (isn't that cute!).  As for the interior, it could be a pared down bistro version of the ornate aforementioned establishment.  Even with all of the similarities, Aladdin's still has its own personality.

Aladdin's Lamb Rolled Pita

     There's plenty of decisions to be made from the extensive Lebanese/American offerings.  Our server recommended something from each category.  I'm always impressed when servers are trained to offer up something more than "everything is good here".  We started by sharing the hummus and pita appetizer.  Their version takes 3 days to make and is seriously puréed.  Think of it as melting ice cream.  Obviously, 3 days makes a difference.  Eric and I decided to share Aladdin's Lamb Rolled Pita, which is a lightly toasted pita wrap…this one filled with seasoned grilled lamb with tomatoes, turnips, onions, greens and Tahini dressing.  There were two house made sauces served with the meals.  I found the garlic one the most appealing, but the hot sauce was nice also without being too spicy.  We also shared the Cranberry Walnut Salad that 

Cranberry and Walnut Salad

was an updated version with quinoa and Lebanese Salata (marinated chopped tomatoes, cucumber, green pepper, onions, parsley and scallions).  Aladdin's dressing was a surprise with its lemony tang. 

Mediterranean Beef Kafta Plate

Dee chose the Mediterranean Beef Kafta Plate brimming with chunks of herb and spice coated beef, seasoned brown rice with vermicelli, cinnamon, roasted pine nuts and almonds.  She enjoyed it as she had on previous visits.

Lemoncello Cake

     Eric and I had sniffed out the desserts from the very beginning knowing that we had to have some. Dee decided to take the last piece of Coconut Layer Cake, which was a wise choice with its toasted coconut filling as well as one of plain coconut.  The icing tasted like a mixture of whipped cream and traditional icing.  Our shared Lemoncello Cake had multiple layers of what I would term as an icebox cake.  The creams, white chocolate shavings, white cake and lemon filling were all superb and refreshing.  Although it wasn't available that evening, Eric is still on a mission to sample their Pistachio Cake.  I can't wait either!

aladdinseatery.com